Borla FAQ: Atak on a Ram 1500, the 40349 Muffler, Tools, and a Backup Camera

Every week, I get the same kind of calls. A dealer needs a cat-back system for a customer's Ram 1500 before the weekend. A shop snapped a bolt on an exhaust hanger and needs a Borla muffler 40349 by tomorrow. Someone asks about a backup camera that won't come on in reverse. And every once in a while, the phrase 'kitsch microfiber hair towel review' shows up in our site search.

In my role coordinating rush orders for a performance exhaust distributor, I've handled 400+ emergency requests over the last six years—including same-day turnarounds for shops whose customers had a deadline. So here are the questions that actually land in our inbox, and the answers I'd give a walk-in customer.

Which Borla sound do I get: Atak, S-Type, or Pro XS?

Look, the Atak is the loudest—or rather, the most aggressive in the Borla sound lineup. S-Type is the middle ground: deeper idle, moderate cabin noise, less raw at full throttle. Pro XS is the mellow one of the group. When I compared the Atak and S-Type side by side on the same Ram 1500 last spring, I finally understood why this is a personality test, not a spec sheet. One customer thought the Atak was perfect; the next said it was too much for a daily driver.

So no, I can't tell you which one is 'best.' What I can tell you is to ask three questions before ordering: How long is the daily commute? Does the truck tow or haul? Does anybody sleep in the back seat on road trips? That usually gets you to the right model 90% of the time.

Is the Borla Atak worth it on a Ram 1500?

Short answer: for customers who want to hear the V8, yes. The first startup after an Atak install on a 2019 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi literally changed the feel of the truck. You get a sharp crackle on throttle, a deep idle, and none of that tinny rasp you get from a cheap axle-back. What I mean is, the quality shows up in the details: T304 stainless steel, precision bends, and a sound profile that's been tuned, not just opened up.

We don't throw around 'guaranteed horsepower for everything,' partly because, per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), performance claims need to be truthful and substantiated. Borla publishes its test data. A warranty and a consistent product matters more than a number on a decal. It's not the least expensive option, but for the shop that has to stand behind what it installs, that's the point.

What exactly is a Borla muffler 40349?

Borla 40349 is part of the Pro XS straight-through muffler family. I want to say it's a 4-inch round case by 9 inches long, but don't quote me on that—check the Borla catalog before you order. What I do know is that it's one of those part numbers people ask for by memory, because straight-through mufflers flow well and kill a lot of the high-frequency noise that makes custom exhausts sound harsh.

For a shop, the 40349 is worth keeping on the shelf. Last August, an installer called because he'd already cut off his customer's factory muffler and the replacement he had on hand was the wrong length. We rushed one out with overnight freight—paid $58 extra on top of the part—because the customer had a show the next morning. The vendor that lists freight costs upfront, even when the total hurts, is the one you want to deal with. Surprises can kill a job.

Hercules vs Bauer impact wrench: which should a shop stock?

This one came up after we broke two wrenches on factory exhaust studs in one month. One of our installers wanted to know whether to reorder the Bauer or step up to Hercules. We got both on the same tool wall and ran them side by side for a week. The Bauer unit is okay for light work, but it didn't have the same break-loose power on rusty bolts. Hercules is the one we use now.

Bottom line: for a shop that works on exhaust and suspension, get a 1/2-inch drive, brushless impact wrench, and make sure your battery platform can keep up. And for the love of your rust belt customers, don't use an impact driver to torque anything. The 'use the impact on every bolt' habit comes from an era before aluminum components and plastic trim panels. That's changed. Buy a torque wrench and use it.

Backup camera doesn't come on in reverse—what do I check first?

This might not be an exhaust question, but I get calls about it more than you'd think. Before anyone orders a new camera, go through the cheap checks. First, look in the infotainment settings: some vehicles have a camera on/off option or a delay setting that got changed. Second, check the reverse light bulb and fuse. If the camera is triggered by the reverse circuit, no reverse light often means no camera.

Third—and this is the one people skip—check the wiring harness inside the rubber boot between the body and the tailgate. Wires break from flexing, and it's a 20-minute fix instead of a $300 camera module. In March 2024, we diagnosed a Chrysler with exactly that, 36 hours before the customer's vehicle inspection. The camera wasn't dead. The harness was.

Wait, why does 'kitsch microfiber hair towel review' show up here?

It doesn't make sense, right? But it's a real search query that sends people to sites like this because search engines are literal machines, not mind readers. If you clicked looking for a hair towel, I can't help you. But if you're a shop owner, this is a useful reminder: customers land in weird places before they land with you. Make your page answer the exact question someone types, not the question you wish they'd asked.

And if you made it this far because you were actually looking for Borla exhaust info, then this entire page is for you. Got a rush order? We start by telling you the real price and the real freight date before you commit. No surprise math at the end of the invoice.